Top Tips for a Natural Makeup Look

When it comes to makeup, most people want to look like themselves with a bit of “pop” - not as if they have on gobs of makeup. Sometimes you may want drama, but on most days, if you’re like most people, you probably want to look like natural. Here are some of my top tips for your bringing out the natural you.

Face

If your skin is normal-to-dry or dry: 

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer

Use a sheer moisturizing tint such as Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 to smooth without looking like you put anything on. I recently did makeup for someone who doesn’t like makeup. Because I didn’t want to scare her I used this product, assuring her that she would not look like a “painted lady".  And because she actually liked it, I gave her a tube so she can use it every day for moisturizing benefits, and, more importantly, sun protection. As I keep saying, never leave the house without sunscreen. If you don’t want to use a tint, still use something that has a sunscreen. I am currently moisturizing with LaPrairie Crème Biologie Marine Avancee Jour SPF 20 under my foundation - I always make sure my moisturizer and foundation have sunscreen in case I missed applying somewhere.

Clean and Clear

If your skin is oily:

For especially oily skin, try an oil-absorbing powder in place of a foundation. And carry oil-blotting papers with you so you don’t have to keep reapplying – if you continually reapply, the powder might start to cake up and not look natural at all. On shoots I’ve been using Clean & Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets – they are affordable and great for every day too. Just press them right where you need to blot excess oil. I use these on set to keep people from looking shiny on camera.

Bare Minerals Warm Radiance

Cheeks

For the natural look (as seen here on Melinda), I used a soft reddish bronzer. If you’ve read my other articles, I don’t mean to bore you by recommending the same things over again – but I do love the tried and true and will only share the things I really like. This is bareMinerals Warm Radiance – the shade is so versatile I use it on almost all skin tones. It’s a loose powder so you have to be careful or it can make a mess - dip the brush in lightly and then tap off excess before application. bareMinerals recommends dipping the brush into the top cap to avoid getting too much product on the brush. It’s a definitely good tip. If you really prefer a pressed powder, I like Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder. (People also love Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick Compact if you want some bronze sparkle.)

Eyes

For natural softness, use shades that blend into skin and hair tone. This is usually earthy shades, such as soft beiges, creams and browns (depending on your skin tone). Blend well.

Eye Shadow

• A soft beige eye shadow from lash to brow

• A soft rust shade in the outer corners (a rust accent complements Melinda’s hair color and pulls the makeup together.)

Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara

Eye Liner

I lightly applied brown eyeliner on top lash line. To keep it subtle, always apply right on lash line, not outside or inside of it. Staying on the lash line just makes lashes look a bit fuller.

Lashes

Try brown or black/brown mascara on top lashes only. I am still a big fan of Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara. It never clumps and always looks natural. I am also allergic to most mascaras but I can wear this one!

Brows

Clinique Brow Shaper is super-easy to use. The shades are subtle and it comes with a stiff brush that helps you shape without looking drawn on. Apply lightly and then step away from the mirror to make sure you’re using just enough product to lightly define brows.

Lips

For this shoot I used a sheer gloss with a tint. I like the non-sticky lightness of Clinique Almost Lipstick (one of their classic best-sellers and my favorite is a shade called Black Honey). I recommended it here as a Clinique Beauty Icon product.

The shades listed here work for most skin tones. If you have a deeper skin tone you can use the same shades, just with deeper pigment. For example, instead of brown use a black eye liner and mascara. In addition, use brands that have more pigment-rich colors in general, such as MAC, Stila or NARS. Viva au naturale!

MODEL IMAGE BY:

Photography, Chris Eckert

Model, Melinda Lennox

Hair, Kristan Serafino

Makeup, Robyn Tamura

On the Red Carpet: Laura Benanti

Who gets to be gorgeous, talented and have a great personality? An old friend of mine used to say you get one or maybe two but not all three – she said the gods just don’t allow it. Which seems fair enough. But I recently had the opportunity to work with Tony Award winning Laura Benanti and I can tell you right now she is as kind as she is beautiful. And winning Tonys doesn’t happen unless you’re exceptionally talented, and guess what - she has all three.

This fall, Laura stars in the new NBC show Go On with Friends' Matthew Perry. 

When she first arrived to NYC, Laura was cast as an understudy for the Broadway role of Maria in The Sound of Music - a show she would go on to star in. From there she went on to many roles and became one of Broadway's brightest stars, picking up awards and accolades all along the way. After learning I was in the presence of Maria I couldn’t help but hum My Favorite Things (really corny I know, but I actually wasn't thinking about it) as I did her makeup - and Laura and hairstylist Kristan Serafino joined right along with me. Then off she went to the red carpet looking glowing and beautiful.

Makeup Tips for Laura's Red Carpet Look Laura wanted natural makeup so I stuck with warm nude and earth tones and added small touches of brightness to keep it fresh and glowing.

Laura Up Close

Moisturize before applying makeup. I used a light moisturizer and Origins GenZing eye cream. Moisturizing helps smooth on foundation so it looks soft and natural. Because her skin is already so smooth and even, I used foundation sparingly and only to create a "palette" for color. To make sure it lasted throughout the night, I set the makeup with a sheer face powder and the under eye concealer powder from Laura Mercier's Undercover Pot.

Highlight eyes with a touch of light shimmer. I used Matisse Elite Star Dust Powder on just the inner corners to draw attention to her eyes. If we were creating a dramatic look I would use shimmer more liberally, but using it just as an accent is perfect to keep it soft and natural.

Warm the face with a bronzer. I used a bronzer in place of a blush on cheeks, around the sides of face and on the forehead area. Again, to keep it natural, it's important to blend any bronzer well.

Add soft color to lips. Laura is wearing coral shoes - I didn't mean to match her lips to them, but now that I'm looking at the images I kind of did! Matching lips and shoes is, of course, in no way important or necessary, but keeping lip color in the warmer tones helps blend the warmer eye and cheek color together.

Look for Laura this Fall,  Tuesdays at 9pm (EST)!

Go On NBC

Hair by Kristan Serafino, Makeup by Robyn Tamura

Sparkles & Bangles, Pretty in Pictures

These are some of the images we created for Kelly Bruggema's Soo Ihn Kim Jewelry. Kelly is a talented jewelry designer who also photographs her beautiful designs. Or you can say she's a talented photographer who started her own jewelry line. And though it's a fairly young company, her collections have already been seen on celebrities such as Heidi Klum and Zoe Saldana – as well as featured in magazines such as Vogue, InStyle and Harper's Bazaar.

Hair is by Kyung Min Chon. I love Kyung's story because she really followed her heart to become a hairstylist. She began her university education in Korea as a German Studies major. But once there she realized her true passion was to be in beauty. Being Asian myself I know that any career implying "artist" is not one most Asian parents get that excited about. So she somewhat independently applied to the prestigious Osaka Mode Fashion College, was accepted, and moved to Japan to study hair and makeup. Kyung has since become an accomplished hairstylist and makeup artist with numerous celebrity and corporate clients. She currently works at Warren-Tricomi in NYC.

And myself...well, you already know about me. I just had so much fun working with Kelly and Kyung - and seeing those gorgeous pieces of jewelry too.

Kelly’s designs can be found in boutiques throughout the world and with online retailers ShopBop and The Gilt Groupe (where I will soon be looking for some pieces myself).

Look Good Feel Better: Helping Women With Cancer

When my cousin Linda was diagnosed with cancer, I could not believe it.Ever since I was a little girl, I looked up toher. She was the awesome cousin with a giant pink flowered bedroom and the best dolls. Later she was the beautiful, cool artist cousin who won awards for painting pictures of Jim Morrison and had all The Beatles records. Much later, she was the reason New York City didn’t seem so scary when I moved here. In NYC, Linda gave me a home, taking of care of me and always there when I needed someone. Even as a little girl, when I was afraid to let go of the side of the pool, she taught me how to swim. (Little did I know that this would someday define our relationship.) How could my strong and amazing cousin, someone who who anchored my life, have cancer? It wasn’t possible. I somehow convinced myself it wasn’t true – or if it were, it would turn out to be nothing. In the beginning it was easy. She looked as gorgeous as always and stayed cheerful and positive. As she went through treatment, however, it became increasingly hard to ignore. I saw her weaken, watched her skin get sallow and her gorgeous shiny hair fall out. Everyone had always talked about how beautiful Linda was, but she never seemed that aware of it or cared much about it either. Even without hair, Linda walked around so unselfconsciously that strangers would say, “You look amazing. I wish I could pull that off but I know I wouldn’t look like you.” She always took it as a compliment and just said thank you. They’d walk away thinking she was so fabulous, never knowing she had cancer.

Then one day she asked me to go with her to Look Good Feel Better at the American Cancer Society. Look Good Feel Better is a program that teaches makeup and hair for women undergoing cancer treatments. It took me off guard because I thought we had an unspoken agreement that she didn’t have cancer. I was so upset. I then realized she had been protecting me, as she always did. And that she, unlike myself, had accepted that she had cancer. I could see more clearly how she felt about it and that it affected how she saw herself. But I was scared to go. I felt that going to a cancer program made it too real - and I was scared to admit that she was sick and it was affecting her more than I let myself believe.

But when we got there, I saw that the program allowed her to focus just on herself and be with others who were struggling too. As little as she took her beauty seriously, Linda always loved having her makeup done. Look Good Feel Better wasn’t a cure, but it sure did make her happy. And although the program is for someone with cancer it isn’t focused on cancer - giving women time to feel once again like themselves and do something they would’ve enjoyed in any situation. Plus everyone gets a collection of skin care and makeup products to take home. You should have seen the joy on Linda's face when she got that bag!

I’ve worked with this program over the years, most recently doing makeup for their virtual workshops. These workshops are for women who’d like to learn more about Look Good Feel Better and/or cannot attend one in person.

Several weeks ago I worked with Guggenheim Productions on a Spanish language version hosted by Univison’s Lourdes Stephen of Sal y Pimenta and featured two beauty experts who have conducted LGFB workshops for many years – Hairstylist Petra Muriel and Skin Care Esthetician/Makeup Artist Lilly Rivera.

Petra joined LGFB in 2005. When I asked her what she loves most about LGFB, she said “When women come to us they often feel alone and self-conscious – their skin is parched, hair falling out, features faded, even their nails can turn black. I teach them how to care for and wear a wig, as well as how to create accessories that are comfortable and look great too. Wigs are hard for some–they find them too hot [to wear]. So I make a lot of scarves from t-shirts because they are so comfortable and soft on sensitive skin.” Petra said that while she loves sharing her expertise, the best part is helping women know they are not alone.

Petra invited Lilly, who has 35 years of beauty expertise, to join LGFB. Lilly is a character - dynamic, cheerful and funny, with a knack for making women feel relaxed and comfortable. I asked her about that and she said that although she’s never had cancer, she can still relate to a woman who feels insecure about how she looks - because growing up she struggled with these insecurities too. Lilly believes that it’s not about making a woman look like someone else, “it’s bringing back her sparkle, bringing her back to herself. It’s teaching women to see their true beauty.”

I spoke also to the women attending the workshop. Even those reluctant to speak English brought out photos to show me how they looked at the hardest points of their treatment. You could see in their eyes how excited they were to show me their “before” and “after." And I saw how they realized they did not have to look like cancer survivors. Instead they looked funky and edgy and cool – just as Linda did when she confidently sported her baldness.

Of course having amazing makeup and hair is wonderful and fun and helps people look as they once did. But more importantly, the program helps connect women and give them back their confidence. Instead of feeling like cancer survivors, they can go out in the world and simply feel fabulous.

As soon as it's on the LGFB site, I'll link it here so you can see Lourdes, Lilly and Petra in action. Even if you don’t speak Spanish, take a peek just to see the sheer joy and fun the women are having and how it demonstrates what it means to Look Good Feel Better and have this shared experience together.

If you are a cancer patient and have questions about the program or finding where you can attend a workshop, please feel free to contact me to help you get in touch with the right people. 

Note: To see a LGFB workshop in English, click here.

Going to the Beach Essentials

I recently visited Carmel By-the-Sea, so as you might expect, I went to the sea. The beach is soft white sand surrounded by cypress trees and a sky so blue it’s like a painting. But, in case you didn’t know – as I didn’t – a Carmel summer is colder than a Carmel winter.

As I always say, it’s much easier to remember sun protection when you’re hot and the sun’s beating down on you. So not only did I keep intending to put on sunscreen (but not doing it), I also didn’t think about how water reflects the sun, increasing your chances of being getting sun damage. (As a city girl, I forgot even the obvious, such as how sand sticks in your hair, between your toes, in your shoes, everywhere.) Eventually I did come to my senses and began using my oft-mentioned Neutrogena sunscreen. Then it occurred to me that they must make a gentler baby formula I should get for Lucy. Neutrogena Pure & Free Baby Faces is so ultra-gentle that not only did I use it on Lucy but on my own face every day at the beach.

So if you’re like me and don’t go to the beach often, here’s a checklist to get you started:

Beach Essentials

• Sunscreen, of course – Remember to reapply if you go in the water.
• A Sun Hat and UV Protective clothing - In the picture above, Lucy is in her cousin's UV clothes...and although everyone walking by told me what a "cute little boy" I have, she was protected!
• UV protection sunglasses
• Lots of water to stay hydrated.
• Several towels, even if you don’t go in the water. For example, I had a wet dog come by and shake all his sandy wet fur on me (twice).
• Rubber flip-flops, so sand is easy to rinse off. If you must remain chic at the beach, DVF and Tory Burch both make rubber flip-flops. Or just get those inexpensive ones from the drugstores they have anywhere there is a beach. One day I wore my leather slip-ons because I thought I’d just slip them off when I got to the beach. Now I’m wondering if I will ever get sand out of them.

If you’re a beach-goer you might be laughing at my naiveté, but this city dweller would have liked to have this list so maybe there’s another one like me who will too.

The Present & Future You

I’ve been talking to friends about self-perception. If you’ve read earlier things I've written, you know I had a baby. And it wasn’t yesterday. It was 2 years ago, and, at this point, I'm feeling like the "you just had a baby" excuse is no longer such a good one. My body has changed - but I’ve just been waiting to get back to “normal". In my neighborhood, there's a lot of women pushing strollers looking as if they never had a baby and I always thought that would also be me. But now I'm starting to wonder if I need to accept a new normal and make peace with it. Maybe. I am actually going to try a little more before giving up my old clothes. And that's positive. The less positive part is that self-acceptance is just not that easy.

When I told a friend this, she said, “You know, when I was skinny I didn’t even think about it. I thought it was normal and I just found other things wrong with me.” I know so many women – smart, beautiful, interesting women – who talk about what they wish they had or didn’t have and what they’d like to change about themselves. I even hear it from models and actresses and women everyone would describe as nothing less than beautiful.

In the best of worlds we just wouldn't care – but we all know there is a certain standard of what's considered beautiful (and not). Still, it doesn’t mean we should let it define who we are or make us unable to love what we have. I think that sometimes when we're so busy looking at what we don't like we don't even realize what we do.

I mentioned this to another friend and she made me laugh because she said, “You know what? Sometimes I look at pictures and think about how bad I look. And then I realize that in 10 years I’ll look back and think I looked awesome!” This, I think, is amazing - because as we go through life it all becomes relative. And if the future you is going to look back and see how great you look and are, why not let the present you see it too?

Looking Like an Idol

So it’s down to the finale. Maybe by the time you read this it will be over but it’s not about the winner, is it? It’s about who’s in it. I watched American Idol last night (of course) and because there were only two women featured, I think I can do this (as opposed to my last American Idol post when there were too many people to keep track of). Jennifer Lopez

I am pretty sure Jennifer Lopez’s makeup artist was off for the night. This was not the same makeup artist. I don’t like to be hypercritical of other artists’ work because I know how hard it can be, how much lightning can affect makeup, how the person wearing it affects the makeup, how brutal HD can be, and so on. And when you’re famous, everyone is too often looking at you and criticizing you, which is awful. Plus I love Jennifer Lopez. But since her makeup is usually flawless I have to say that it just didn't meet its usual high standard.

JLo almost always wears concealer under and around her eye area that brightens and draws attention to her eyes. This time it was too much - either too light or too thick and you could see the line between where her concealer started and stopped. It looked like she had a two-toned mask on, her nose looked uneven and she was shiny. Of course she is still gorgeous, but I’m talking about the makeup and what we can learn from it.

Don’t

Unless you’re going for a specific look that requires it, don’t let makeup lines show on your face. That always says that you’re wearing makeup, not just looking glow-y and smooth. Make sure that everything is blended, blended, blended.

Do

If you are on camera – particularly if you have a tan or darker skin tone - wear powder. Even if your skin is not oily, the flash or bright lighting can make your skin look shiny.

Jessica Sanchez

Jessica Sanchez looked good, especially during the first song. Everything was just right – the dress was glamorous without looking too sexy for her age, the hair and makeup was soft and matched the dress. Throughout the season, Jessica’s makeup sometimes looked a little drag queeny. Part of it is that she already has naturally strong brows so when you add makeup it can quickly look like too much. But last night her eye shadow was soft with a touch of shimmer, she had lots of lashes, soft cheeks and lips with a little glossy light color. And the lips weren’t too defined so it looked good without being distracting.

However, by the 3^rd song Jessica had too much blush on. This is what I’m talking about – let me be clear that she does not/did not look like a drag queen - but you venture into drag queen territory when you wear too much makeup all over.

Don’t

Wear too much too much on all features. If you want to wear more makeup, concentrate on one feature, i.e., smoky eyes with lighter lips, dark lips with more nude eyes. This ensures you look sexy and glam without it being too much.

Do

Try out a pinky nude lip! For the first song she wore a pinky brown lipstick with a beige/nude gloss on top. Not everyone can wear a completely matte-nude shade like you see on models in a magazine – but most people look good with the shade Jessica wore.

Here’s how:

1. Find a pink-brown or pink lip pencil to line and fill in lips for a matte base (the color will stay on longer with a matte base).
2. Follow with a pinkish brown or brownish pink lipstick.
3. Apply a nude lip gloss on the inner part of lips (as opposed all on lips to the lip line) because the gloss will move out to the edges as you wear it.

And on a final note - of course, I do love my Phillip Philips, who always looks the same, which is boyishly gorgeous. He is kind of good-looking but if you really look at him it’s more of his expression, his eyes and that smile that make him good-looking. Which, after all, is the essence of beauty. After his first song I really thought he would lose. But when he pulled out that last song, I think he won. Only time will tell. And let’s see if JLo’s makeup artist is on the job tonight.

The Many Moods of Red

Red is a beautiful, enigmatic shade.  It stands for so many things – Paint the Town Red = Fun. Seeing Red = Anger. Red Hot = Sexy. Red is passion, it’s heart, it’s emotion. For this story, Red is Beauty.

Of course, the inspiration here starts with gorgeous red hair. The images are the collective creation of photographer Chris Eckert, hairstylist Kristan Serafino, model Melinda Lennox and makeup artist, me. With a signature red, Melinda transforms into anything from a sweet gamine to a stunning, wicked vixen – and each transformation mirrors the moods of red (with a sexy edge as Melinda can’t help but smolder). Enjoy!

Be Natural Tip: For a natural look keep the bottom lash line clean – mascara and eye liner on top lash line only.

Subtle Color Tip: Use earth tones to build color that looks soft and natural.

Luscious Lip Tip: To make lips look fuller, add a touch of shimmery gloss on top of lip color.

Contour Tip: For deeper eye contour, blend a darker shade into the crease.

Intense Eye Tip: To make eyes more intense, use a black kohl eye liner on the inner and outer lash line.

Drama Tip: To create a more drama, use contrast – concentrate color on eyes, and go nude on lips.

Click here for hairstyling tips from Kristan Serafino!

Next: How to Create the Looks. 

Top 6 Things to Do About Your Dry, Chapped Lips

6. Avoid Super Long Wear. If you wear lipstick, don’t use one of those longwearing lipsticks that has a lip stain on one end and a moisturizer on the other. At least, I’ve not found one that works. Even with the moisturizing stick, lips still feel dry shortly thereafter so you have to keep using the moisturizer on top of the stain all day long. And I don’t even think the color ends up being super long wearing anyway. Or else I’d be wearing them. 5. Find a Moisturizing Lipstick. I personally hate reapplying lipstick so I wear the driest, most matte lipsticks that don’t ever come off. This causes people to constantly comment on what a great color I have on but that my lips look really dry. Which, again, if I have to trade one thing for another I’m not going to wear a lipstick I have to reapply over and over. The alternative for me is not wearing lipstick. But you, like most people, probably don’t have this hang-up. So find something really creamy and soft like Lancome’s L'Absolu Rouge.

4. Moisturize Nightly. Since I wear dry lipstick during the day, I moisturize at night. I like to use either Burt’s Bees Nourishing Lip Balm with Mango Butter or Nivea Lip Care Essential. For some reason I discovered Nivea years ago in Dubai. It was in my hotel room or something and I had not had it before so I bought a whole bunch while I was there, only to realize we have it here. But since then I have loved many Nivea moisturizing products.

3. Exfoliate Lips. Use a gentle face scrub on your lips from time to time. I like Clinique 7-Day Scrub Cream because it has a cream base and small, perfectly round beads that are gentle and buff off dryness. Do not use a chemical/cream exfoliant on your lips unless a company says it’s OK - if it’s not specifically made for lips it can be irritating (or worse).

2. Use a Lip Balm with a Lip Pencil. If you can’t find a moisturizing lipstick that does it for you, use a moisturizing lip balm with a lip liner. First apply lip balm; then line and fill in lips so you can wear it all as your lip color. Apply the balm first or else the lip pencil will probably drag and pull on your dry lip skin.

1. Drink Lots of Water. Cure that dryness from the inside out. Eight 8oz. glasses daily are the recommended but I find that I do best with 12 (glasses a day). This makes my brother to warn me about hyponatremia (water intoxication that can be fatal) but I rarely achieve 12 glasses anyway. I know if I did my lips would be soft and supple every day – without ever having to use any lip balm.

Mwah!

Linea Pelle's Designer Andrew Cotton Tips on How to Wear a Belt

Andrew Cotton is the "all things creative" genius behind Linea Pelle. We met on set where I was able to watch him discuss his designs and demonstrate how to best wear a belt. He talked a lot about belts, which made me realize that an accessory like a belt can be an addition that adds a touch of something without having to buy a new wardrobe. I’ve never been an accessories person. I love looking at them and even having them, but I find extra stuff too fussy for me - bracelets jangling on my wrists, necklaces getting in the way of my clothes, etc. –  I usually end up taking them off. Don’t get me wrong. Feel free to gift me because I do love them but history indicates you should not be offended if I'm not often wearing any. But I’ve been rethinking accessories lately. And I because of Andrew, I went out today and bought a new braided belt!

A Wide Belt, called the Bo Classic Braided Belt, looks and wears especially well because the leather is vintage, so it’s soft and stretchy and comfortable. You can also wear it on either your hips or waist. Since my waist isn’t flat post-pregnancy (yes, still – and not even close), wearing it on the hips is perfect. But if you’re tiny you have options. I also personally like wide belts because they are flattering in general.

Andrew’s Tips:

• Your Natural Waist. A lot of women think their waist is higher than it actually is. If you’re wearing a belt at the waist, make sure it’s worn just above the hips.
• Where it Fits. The best belt fit is generally when it’s on the middle hole. But, he says, you should also be able to move, a belt should never be uncomfortable and constricting.
• Have fun! Have fun and experiment with different kinds of belts – belts help shape your curves and style.

A skinny braided belt, called the Bo Double Wrap Braid Belt, is great because of its versatility and anybody of any size can wear it. So you can expand and contract and still be able to use this belt (those braids allow for many holes). It can also be worn either on the waist or hips and styled several different ways.

Andrew’s Tips:

• Wear it as a double wrap. Loop it through both of the straps for a different look.
• Criss-cross it. Use one strap through belt and let the other hang low. Andrew is all about fashion, but in the spirit of fun and personal expression. Have fun wearing it in whatever way that works for you. He says “Don't be uptight... the extra tail [hanging low] is called attitude.” I like that!
• Strategic placement. If you’re longer waisted, sling a skinny belt a bit lower on the hips – or opt for a wider belt.
• A Little Pooch? If you have a little extra stomach “pooch” use a hip belt that creates a V in front to elongate the torso.

While Andrew has so many tips and ideas for belt wearing, he also advises that you experiment with different belts and find the ones that work best for you. Which I say, is always the best advice. You know what works for you. (Or if not...maybe I can go back and find Andrew for you!)

The Dos and Don’ts of Concealing Under Eye Dark Circles

Did you watch this season’s Project Runway All-Stars? As they neared the finale, the designers were taken to the Hearst Tower to meet with the editor of Marie-Claire. I wasn’t there to meet an editor, but recently did some men’s grooming for a video shoot there. I’m only mentioning it from Project Runway because I love that beautiful building and hope you have seen it too (even if only on TV).Anyway, most men don’t want makeup, so my job is usually to make sure their hair and skin look good and they are camera-ready. But like women, even non-makeup wearing men ask about what to do with under eye dark circles. It’s tricky because if you need coverage but don’t want to look like you’re wearing makeup, application has to be just right. So if dark circles and puffiness are a concern for you, here are some makeup application Dos and Don’ts: DO

Start by applying a de-puffing eye cream and let it absorb into skin. A lot eye creams contain cucumber and caffeine and both are said to reduce dark circles/puffiness. Apparently, drinking a lot of caffeine is bad for dark circles, but putting it on your skin is good for reducing them! Try Origins No Puffery. Honestly, I completely forgot about this product until just now. When I was with Origins, I remember how people would panic when they could not find their No Puffery. Panic! I've never had a problem with dark circles or puffy eyes so cannot personally attest to its wonders - but I have seen other people worship this product.

Use a good under eye concealer brush. A good brush helps you “paint” dark circles away. Using fingers is much more difficult because it’s harder to be precise and get concealer exactly how you need it so it looks smooth and natural. I have several concealer brushes, but bareMinerals Maximum Coverage Concealer Brush is one of my favorites. Sometimes the bristles on concealer and foundation brushes separate and make application difficult. This one doesn't.

Apply a peachy-pink/salmon shade of concealer. Why this shade works so well I don’t know, but it does. Since you don’t want concealer to show on skin, make sure it’s the right shade. Sometimes if the peachy/salmon shade doesn’t completely “disappear” on skin I use a slightly lighter concealer to blend it in. But, if you're not a makeup artist with all different shades at your disposal, you can also just use a small bit of your foundation over the concealer to blend it in. I like Eve Pearl's Salmon Concealer. 

Finish with a tiny bit of sheer powder on top of the concealer to set it. I always use the powder from Laura Mercier Undercover Pot. It has two shades of concealer and a little bit of powder you can use on top.

DON’T

Don't use too much concealer. You don’t want to trade one concern for another – if you put too much concealer in an effort to lighten dark circles it can get cake-y and creasy. A little concealer will still lighten dark circles – even if they are not completely covered, it's still better than looking cake-y and creasey. If you are 18 or 20 or whatever age under eye skin is always perfectly smooth, you can probably use more than most people. Otherwise, too much is worse than too little.

Don’t use too much powder. Too much powder can also make the concealer look cake-y and unnatural. A very light dusting is just enough.

Don’t rub or be too rough with the eye area skin. Skin around the eyes is more fragile and more easily damaged. Be gentle to yourself, especially in the eye area.

Don’t forget about prevention. Like everything with health and beauty, taking care of yourself is essential. Most people are aware – from first hand experience – that dark circles and puffiness often are the result of stress and lack of sleep. So cut back on the partying!

Behind the Scenes: Emmelle Fall 2012

This is a photo shoot for Emmelle’s Fall 2012 collection. Designer Mi Jong Lee’s clothing is feminine and strong and I especially like her Asian inspired pieces. She is also a very nice person! To complement the styling, we started with a softer makeup look but then decided to make it more dramatic. Below is the look I started with (via iPhone pics below); the second is what you see here in the final images. For the final look I just applied deeper shades over the first. The model – Angelika – is quite fair so it didn’t take much to add drama.

Here’s what I used:

Skin. Foundation, concealers, powders should be invisible - used as sparingly as possible. Her skin was pretty even so I just used a concealer only where she needed it. But she wasn't going outside. For most people I recommend a sheer foundation with an SPF to make sure you get daily sun protection. My friend Mary swears by Jouer Illuminizing Moisture Tint. I once gave it to her and later found out how much she liked it when the product ran out and she called me, very concerned that didn't know where to get another one (I’ve only seen it in Bendels NYC and she lives in California . . . but to her relief she found it online). I've given Mary many products over the years and she is very discriminating so I am confident in passing on her recommendation.

Cheeks. I like powder blush because it’s easy to blend and if I need to adjust application, it’s also easier to blend off. In general, a good rule is to start with less - it’s always easier to add than subtract! Here I used Clinique Blushing Blush Powder Blush in Precious Posy. It’s one of my favorite shades because it’s soft and warm. And it’s kind of a happy color.

Eyes. For eye shadow, I used one of my favorite palettes from Prescriptives, which unfortunately is no longer a brand so you can’t buy it anymore. A similar shade combination of what I used is Clinique Eyeshadow Duo in Like Mink. It has a pale shimmery cream and a dark shimmery brown. I used the light shade all over lid and the darker shade from lash to crease. For more drama, I applied a MAC Eye Shadow in Carbon and smudged it on the lid and around the top and bottom lashlines. Then I added layers of Clinique High Impact Mascara.

Lips. I kept lips soft because the eyes were so strong. I have a Bobbi Brown lip palette that has something like 20 or 30 shades so I never remember the names, but I used a peachy gloss with a Clinique Lip Liner called Honeystick (Can you tell I've worked a billion years with Clinique? I first worked with Clinique in 1990, so I have a pretty good idea of what their products do and do not do. So, yes, listen to me. I know!).

Anyway, as usual we had fun! I especially like how bride of frankenstein beautiful Angelika looks here:

Photography by  Seiji Fujimori, Styling by David Yassky, Hair by Kristan Serafino, Makeup by me.

Beauty at Carnegie Hall

If you’re Asian, you were probably required by your parents to learn either violin or piano. Mine was piano. And whenever I complained I was told, “You’ll thank us someday.” Which is true, although I only lasted 4 years and probably would be thanking them more had I lasted longer. But still I am grateful I can at least play a couple songs, such as Fur Elise and Moonlight Sonata—and if I really try I can still read a note or two. Which is also why my little Lucy will carry on to play either violin or piano too. Ha! And so the stereotype continues. While I don’t know the extent of her parental pressure, Xiang Wang clearly met and exceeded any standard put before her. Of a 2008 recital she did at Carnegie Hall, a New York Times reviewer wrote: “Even for the most gifted young pianist, it takes a lot to be noticed” and described her has having “an estimable grasp of pianistic color…an ability to maintain and illuminate a strand of melody within the thickest of textures.” Exactly what all this means I am not sure but I do understand she’s a recognized talent around the world.

We spent the day doing a photo shoot for the cover of Xiang’s upcoming CD. Because she normally wears very little makeup and was wary of it, I used just enough to emphasize her features.

Here’s what I used:

Powder. Laura Mercier Pressed Setting Powder applied lightly to smooth and matte-ify. Xiang’s skin was not oily, but any skin type can look shiny in photographs.

Eye Shadow. The darker shade of Clinique’s Colour Surge Eye Shadow Duo in Like Mink from lash to crease and blended up. Tip: If you have trouble applying or blending eye shadow, Clinique is a good choice because their shadows are not highly pigmented so color can be built gradually.

Eye Liner. YSL’s Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black applied right on top and bottom lash lines to emphasize her eye shape and make lashes look fuller. For her eyebrows, I used the same liner by applying a swatch on the back of my hand (to use as a palette) and an angled Eye Brow Brush to gently brush on the natural shape of her eyebrows.

Lashes. Short individual false lashes applied on top lash line to create thicker, longer lashes. While it might sound as if fake lashes could never look natural, when applied correctly individual falsies look more natural than mascara. Xiang looked quite alarmed when I said I was using false lashes but as you can see it looks very natural.

Blush. Bare Escentuals Bare Minerals Blush blended to sculpt and emphasize her high cheekbones.

Lip Gloss. philosophy Raspberry Sorbet Lip Shine with a lip pencil to add just a touch of color and shine.

This shoot was with photographer Chris Lee* and hairstylist Kristan Serafino at Steinway Hall on 57^th Street. If ever you are in NYC and play piano or even just love piano, go visit. As formal and imposing and museum-like as it appears, the staff is easy-going and welcoming and you’re free to wander through the building to play the many different pianos in the various rooms. And while some of the world’s best pianists play there, no one even cares if that for you it’s just playing Fur Elise.

*Note: I think Chris would appreciate that, with the exception of the beautiful image of Xiang in blue, I let you know that none of the other images posted here are his. Most of them are taken by an amateur (me) on my iPhone.

Making Makeup Last

Have you ever come home, looked in the mirror, and wondered where the makeup went? Or maybe you just can't be bothered to reapply throughout the day. If so, and you want to change it, here are tips to make your makeup last longer. Skin. For foundation, find one that's right for your skin type and also indicates longer wear. If you use a foundation that's not for your skin type you will not get the right results - if your skin is oily and you use a foundation for dry skin, it will look shiny and definitely slip off your skin;  likewise, if your skin is dry and you use an oily skin foundation it will make your skin look and feel even drier. Use a brush to lightly dust powder and set foundation.

Cheeks. Find a good, long-wearing blush tint or cream blush. For even longer wear, pat a matching powder blush on top. I like Becca's Beach Tint for several reasons. You can use it on cheeks and lips (I am always looking for all-in-one products because I won't spend a lot of time on my own makeup). It's a small, portable tube so you can throw it in your bag too. And I just like Becca's packaging. When I looked it up, I found out that this product is also one of Allure magazine's Editor's Picks. So me and the editors recommend it. The only thing about this product is that after awhile you have to massage the tube before squeezing because the product can separate. But it still always looks good.

Eyes. Try a cream eye shadow. For more intense color, add powder eyeshadow on top. Use an eyeliner that doesn't move. For over 20 years I have loved Clinique's Water-Resistant Eyeliner. I was devastated (OK that's  exaggerated, but I was a little unhappy) when it was discontinued. And I wasn't the only one because eventually Clinique brought it back. It's not waterproof but as long as it's dry it never comes off until you take it off. For lashes, look for a waterproof formula or water-resistant mascara. My fellow makeup artist friend swears by Trish McEvoy's Lash Curling Mascara. I haven't tried it myself but I know the type of formula it is - it will only come off by intentionally using warm water (meaning, a splash of water or tears that come when you watch Beaches will not remove the mascara or make it run).

Lips. Line and fill in with lip liner first; then apply lipstick. For longest wear, use a matte lipstick over the lip liner…although if you have dry lips it may make your lips drier so you'll need to moisturize lips well at night.

I hope these help! Here's to your long wearing makeup days.

If You've Broken Your New Year's Resolution, There's Always the Year of the Dragon.

If you have already fallen off the wagon (as I have) for your New Year's Resolutions, fear not. There's still time for redemption - Chinese New Year, which starts today, January 23. That means today is your new, New Year! My husband and I made a January 1 pact that we would go to bed every night at 10p.m. This isn't even a hard one like "I will cut all sugar from my diet" or "I will exercise before work every day". It's just that we have an early morning alarm clock with no snooze button, our daughter Lucy. Every night we stay up late we curse ourselves (or each other) in the morning for not having gone to bed sooner. So starting tonight we will recalibrate and start anew. Sometimes when you write things down they seem more real, and when you write things down that other people will read,  even more so. Therefore, here is my plan: 1. Strictly enforce a 9p.m. starting to-get-to-bed routine. No matter what. I have a whole ritual around going to bed so if I start late, I am guaranteed late.

2. Turn off the TV early. It's always, "but the show's almost over" or "this one is on DVR so without commercials it's only 15 minutes." No.

3. Streamline and organize the Bedtime Ritual. This sounds a little OCD, but I've found that if a goal is broken down into small little, specific goals, it's much easier to take in. And easier to do. For example, before I go to bed I always need a clean face, clean teeth, a glass of water, a book to read, etc. So it could look like this:

1. Cleanse and moisturize.
2. Floss and brush teeth.
3. Put a glass of water and a book by the bed.
4. Plug phone in to charge overnight.
5. Etc. (not going to bore you with all the tedious but personally necessary details)

4. Have a healthy snack. A rumbling stomach will wake me up. But eating a Crumbs cupcake or leftover chicken wings is not the answer (And, yes, I eat that bad. Healthy eating could certainly be another resolution, but as I said, you have to start small to go big...or maybe I just want to keep eating cupcakes.)

5. Get something to help maintain the bedtime ritual. I used to have this minty aromatherapy product called Origins"Peace of Mind" that is meant to help relax the body and mind. For me this scent helps signal bedtime as I associate it with relaxation. Think I'm going to check if they still have it and try it again. My brother uses sleepy tea that relaxes to signal bedtime. 

6. Anticipate what throws you off track and have Plan Bs for things you know are likely to stop you from reaching your goal. I put the TV one above because my husband loves TV and it definitely is an ongoing factor in getting to bed earlier. American Idol's on! The game is in overtime!

So that's my Getting More Sleep list. From what I've learned, to make any goal achievable you have to start with something realistically do-able (Maybe not, say, "I must run 10 miles a day"- unless you're a runner and you could actually do that) and make it habitual (repeat it the same way at the same time as much as possible).

My other goal is to get a regular schedule to write this blog. This whole article is about ME. Ha! But I hope it gives you ideas for achieving your goals. And remind you that you have a reprieve start over today, New Year's Day (in China).

They say it takes about 31 days to create a sustainable routine. So here's to March 2012!

2012 is the Year of the Dragon. Let's find our determination and inner dragon!

My Favorite Products Winter 2012

Since I work with so many different brands I am lucky enough to try and evaluate products on a regular basis. And, of course, I can't help myself and buy my own as well. So my list of favorites is always evolving as I discover new things, but these are my recent discoveries.

Laura Mercier Invisible Loose Setting Powder

I recently used this on many different skin tones and was pleasantly surprised to see it truly was invisible. Products often say they are "invisible" but then they are only invisible on certain - usually light - skin tones. I have not yet tried this on very dark skin, but so far it has worked on every other skin tone.  It also not only looks invisible, it feels incredibly silky smooth. I was so happy to find this because I have to powder people all day long and I'm always carrying around different shades for different people. And if I powder too much the makeup often gets cake-y. Now I have this one!

Up & Up Cocoa Butter Lotion Deep Conditioning

I am an equal opportunity cosmetic user. I am discriminating but do not brand discriminate when something is good. If there's a deal to be had, I will have it. This cream is a generic Target brand. I have a 31.8 fl oz bottle that you can buy online for $3.49USD. (It says 30% more, although I do not know what it's measuring against.) My skin gets so dry in the winter that usually only the really thick creams make my skin comfortable - but they also make it greasy. This lotion is creamy and makes skin instantly comfortable. I also put some extra on my feet right after I crawl in bed so my feet are extra-soft in the morning.

Chanel Perfection Lumiere Long-Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup SPF 10

So not only do I love Chanel packaging (who doesn't?) but their products are good too. I originally thought this foundation would be shimmery and sheer because the word "lumiere" made me think it would shimmer. It is actually lightweight like a sheer foundation, only with more coverage. It gives you that "I don't have makeup on" look, except your skin is more smooth and even. For that reason, I love it. And, if you can't or don't want to afford a Chanel bag, a little Chanel makeup is a nice mini-substitute. It's not inexpensive, but you do at least get what you paid for.

It's only January, so I expect I will find more favorite makeup gems. And when I do, you'll see them here too.

I'm Beginning to Look A Lot Like Christmas Makeup Tips

In case you’re here to find makeup tips for a Holiday Look, let’s talk about that. It makes sense that most holiday looks always involve some kind of sparkle. So what kind of sparkle should you use? Anybody who knows me knows I’m not much for rules. Just do what you like and what works for you. But here are some ideas and tips: If your dress is especially sparkly, balance your look with a softer eye.

Matte. Try a matte eye shadow. Use a lighter shade for a brighter eye look or a smokier shade for more drama. Try a lash to brow lighter shade for daytime; a dark brown or black smudged shadow around the eye (like an eyeliner). With either, apply eyeliner on the top lash line and lots and lots of mascara.

Soft. Use a lipstick that’s close to your natural lip color. That way you still get some color that doesn’t compete with your dress. Or, if you’d prefer to compete with your dress, go for bright red lips. Your choice!

If you want your makeup, not clothing, to show your festive side, sparkle it up!

Shimmer. Find a lighter, shimmer-y eye shadow shade and apply from lash to brow and a darker shade in the crease. Then use a light silver or gold shade or eye pencil to brighten the inner and outer corners of eyes. And, again, apply liner on the upper lash line and lots and lots of mascara!

Sheer. For lips, use a sheer gloss for a touch of shine. If you want more color with your gloss, line and fill lips in with a lip liner and then apply gloss on top.

If it’s a nighttime cocktail party, the lights are usually softer and you’re probably going to get your picture taken at some point.

Especially now that everyone has cell phone cameras, the likelihood of having your picture taken is about 100%. Consider:

Soft Lighting. Under softer lights, you can wear deeper, darker shades without looking too made up. If you like to wear more makeup, this is the time. You won’t look overdone (unless you really do overdo it…which of course you won’t do).

Photography. Make sure everything is softly blended because the flash of light magnifies where and how you apply your makeup. If it’s blended, your features look emphasized; if it’s not, you can look garish, even if you don’t look that way under regular lights.

So go be festive. Look amazing. But most of all, have fun!

Get the J.Lo Glow!

One woman who wears makeup right is Jennifer Lopez. She is always glowing. Next time you're watching TV, look at people's makeup and compare the difference. For example, sometimes newscasters look orange or greyish or too pale (I know sometimes they have to do their own makeup so we can cut them slack, but take a look). Below are some things you can do to try on the glowy look as shown here. When J.Lo goes red-carpet-y and glamorous, she does it just right. The Look Basics

Blend well.  Makeup looks soft, with edges fading away. Here and elsewhere, her makeup is almost always well blended.

Skin looks natural. Her foundation is used to smooth and even her skin, and the shade gives her a slightly warmer look.  Again, the makeup is so blended and smooth it gives her a non-makeup-y glow.

Focus on eyes. The makeup draws attention to her eyes. Everything else is muted.

Face

Bronze. After foundation, apply bronzer at hairline, on forehead and down the sides of face. Bare Minerals Warm Radiance works on many skin tones for both men and women. It gives a touch of warmth without looking unnatural or orange-ish.

Brighten. Choose an under eye concealer that’s one shade lighter than your skin tone; blend under eyes to the tops of your cheekbones. This is what gives her that bright-eyed look. I like YSL Touche Éclat for this because it's so lightweight it doesn't look like you added a lot of makeup.

Flush. Use a soft pink cheek color, concentrating color on the apples of cheeks and up cheekbones. Blend so it fades away.

Eyes

Start with a pink base. Use a pink eye shadow all over eyelid, blend up to (but not on) brow bone. Make sure the pink is not too bright. It’s not a garish pink, it’s soft, slightly pink shade.

Use a plum shadow in crease. Apply a dark plum eye shadow at the base of lashes, in crease and blend up, fading into the pink.

Apply black eyeliner. Use a black kohl eye pencil on the inside and on lash line. Meaning, right next to the whites on the inner part of eyeline is lined black, as well as on the lash line.

Blend brown eye shadow slightly underneath the lash line. Blend a golden brown shade under the bottom lash line. Use a thin brush to smudge and blend.

Lashes. Her top lashes are long, even and perfectly separated—if you’re why wondering they’re so perfect, it’s because they’re falsies. If you’re feeling adventuresome, try falsies on your top lash line. If not, try Laura Mercier Full Blown Volume Mascara in black.

Brows. Use a brow powder, such as Clinique Brow Shaper, to lightly fill in brow shape. It's easier to use a powder than a brow pencil. I always recommend filling in your natural brow shape…unless your brow shape is all over the place. If so, pluck the stray hairs around your brows first and then fill in.

Lips

Nude. Line and fill in lips with a light pink-beige pencil. Then use a matte lipstick of a slightly lighter shade, concentrating color on the middle of the lip. Look closely and you can see that the lipstick is slightly lighter and then blends out to a slightly darker lip line. You can also use a light, nude gloss on top for extra shine.

Voila. The J.Lo glow!

Clinique Laboratories Expert Tips Videos

Check out the Expert Tips and Trends videos I did with Clinique. You can’t see me in the video, but you can see my hands! And maybe learn some makeup tips too. http://www.clinique.com/cms/expert_tips_trends/how_to/video_makeup.tmpl

Here’s what I like: Clinique is very strict about using only Clinique while filming—no false advertising. Everything you see is what a Clinique product will do. And this is HD video. No PhotoShop or alterations. What you see is what you get. I admire and am proud to be a part of that kind of integrity.

LOFT Loves Teachers Makeovers!

If you didn't already know, Ann Taylor LOFT has a teachers' perks program that includes every day discounts, special events, as well as sweepstakes and a cool 50K grant program in support of educators! If I were a teacher, I'd be heading off to LOFT to be appreciated.

We took a trek to Connecticut to do the hair, makeup and fashion makeovers currently featured  in LOFT Loves Teachers. I had not been in a high school since...a long time ago. So being in the gym, walking halls through the halls and seeing those little desks brought back memories of Spanish class (Me llamo Robyn), dreading algebra and hearing the bell ring (running to get back in the classroom on time). Memories good and bad, of course. It's high school!

If you're looking for "before" shots, we don't have any. The makeover was more about letting the teachers have fun with a new look, so it's just the "after." See some images below. Enjoy!

Photos by J. Ryan Roberts and Guggenheim Productions. Hair by Katie Ambrose, makeup by Me.